Adaptable

After searching around on the web, I finally located a rain chain adapter that fit the needs of the newly installed rain chain on the garden shed.

Made/sold by Stanwood Rain Chain via Amazon, the adapter is made of copper and should match the faux patina of the chain I purchased earlier this year. Most importantly, its large 4 1/5" top diameter funnels down to a 1 1/8" opening at the bottom. 

As a result, it limits the amount of splashing that was occurring near the top of the chain, and directs most of the water down along the chain and remaining cups. 

I very happy with this solution. It looks good and works as promised.

Let It Rain

I haven't done much in the garden since late March, its just been too cold or rainy (I was also traveling for some of that time). With spring here a bit late, I dedicated a lot of my time to helping my wife get her vegetable garden up and running. 

With the garden shed attached to her garden, I decided to take some time to get the new rain chain properly installed. To start, I had to realign the drainage pit and bucket at the base of the chain. After the gutter instal back in the fall I realized that the bucket was off-center.  

First I determined the landing-point of the chain and dug a new pit for drainage. The pit was dug to approximately 3'. I then filled two feet of it with drainage rock. Then I place the bucket into the whole on top of the drainage rock. I then filled the bucket about 30% with additional drainage rock. The soil in our area is very sandy, so the empty space in the bucket and the drainage rock below will suffice for drainage, especially given that the roof of the shed is not that large and will not displace large amounts of water. 

Next, some additional soil around the bucket was removed to make room for the stone edging and smaller 3/8 gravel that would be used as a based to contain the crushed granite that would be installed afterwards. 

I also laid down a double layer of weed fabric around the bucket. 

A metal screen was attached to the top of the bucket to limit any debris getting into the bucket. The screen has to be strong enough to hold the weight of the crushed granite that will rest on top. I also screwed it into place to help ensure it remains in place.

I tried several combinations of edging stone before I settled on a design. However, I did make a change to the design later in the process after I tested the water flow (see below).

The crushed granite was then added to cover the bucket and surrounding drainage pit.

Before testing, I did wash most of the granite stone dust away. Doing so helped reveal the color of the stone.

Using a garden hose I spayed water onto the roof and watched what happened. 

Unfortunately, it did not go as planned. Most of the water exited the down spout and spayed outward due to strong winds (edited out of the video clip above). Eventually the flow slowed a bit and it worked somewhat better. 

The downspout is simply to wide and allows too much water to exit at once, especially if there is going to be a strong rain. A light rain might prove better. Additionally, the small flower cups are too small to handle a large amount of rain. They are also spaced too far apart. As a result, much of the water splashes out-and-about and does not flow evenly down through the cups. The larger rain chain on the back porch, with its large cups, handles rain much better.

I may have to change the downspout to a narrower diameter, or add a collection cup between the downspout and the first flower cup. It will take some experimentation to solve this problem.

I really like the look of this rain chain and its small flower cups, but I also have to find a way to make sure it works properly as well. 

I also adjusted the look of the crushed gravel by modifying the edge by taking an elongated stone and placing it within the crushed granite on its own. 

I think it looks more natural. I will continue to tweak this look over the next few weeks as some of the nearby planting emerge. The chain, stones, and plants need to compliment each other. I also have to paint the shed corner foundation brick - in its current state it looks awful.

Its a work in progress, but it is getting closer to completion.

Sukashigaki Restoration

The sukashigaki, or "see through fence," which separates the courtyard from the backyard and Dragon's Spine area was in serious need of repair. Last year I noticed how bad most of the posts had rotten and knew I would have to replace them soon. 

The last two days had temperatures in the 60s so I decided the time was right to get an early start on this major restoration. After cutting back the bamboo a few days earlier, it seemed like the best time to get started. The absence of the thick bamboo, and the opportunity to avoid stepping on new shoots, was ideal.

I first built this fence in 2015, almost ten years ago. At that time, I was not using 4 in. x 4 in. x 30 in. In-Ground HDPE Fence Post Decay Protectors. 

This time I added a protector to each post. Doing so will help slow down the rot that can occur. 

With untreated cedar, there is usually three ingredients needed for rot: air, soil, and water. This occurs right above, at, and below the surface. 

By having the protector protrude from the surface, the rot can be slowed down. I've been using these with the more recent fence rebuilds and so far they seem to be working - only time will tell. 

Once the old posts were removed, it was time to dig new post holes. Admittedly, I am getting too old for this kind of work, but going slow helped. New drainage gravel at the base was added and the new posts inserted and aligned  without too much difficulty.

Because it was warm, I had the opportunity to stain the posts. I was also able to extract the original copper caps from the old posts and reuse them to protect the tops of the new posts.

The tan/brown color doesn't match my green stain, so they do stand out. When I have used these elsewhere in the garden I have been able to hide them with plantings. Doing so along this fence line will be difficult, so when it warms up I will try spray-painting them a matching green color.

The natural cedar screen insets were originally designed so that I could remove them as a singe piece. The next phase of this restoration will be to sand those pieces, re-stain them, and reinsert them between the posts. Although I can start the sanding now, I will have to wait until we get warm weather again before I can complete the re-staining.

Bamboo Bummer

It's mid March and the weather is starting to warm up a bit. As a result, I was able to get into the garden early to start some cleanup and maintenance. Unfortunately, the Clumping Bamboo (Fargesia rufa) in the garden took a heavy hit this winter. The deep freeze throughout the winter left most of the existing bamboo leaves wilted and dead. This often happens during cold winters, but last year was an exception. Almost all of the bamboo survived and thrived. Not so this year.

Wanting to remove the dead stocks before new shoots emerged, I cut back all of the bamboo within the garden, starting with the area along the sukashigaki or "see through fence." 

These two beds look devastated and I am hoping they recover as soon as possible.

I cut the shoots down to the ground. Doing so will make it easier to rake and clean out in the future. Remember to wear good knee pads when doing this work. The small bamboo spikes that are left behind are sharp, pointy, and painful to kneel upon.

I also had to remove the bamboo in other locations as well: middle gate, behind the garage, and along the stroll garden. 

It would have taken all day, but I used a powerful hedge trimmer and reduced the time in half. However, I still had to trim down some of the spikes with hand clippers when done.

It will take some time for new shoots to emerge and fill in the larger areas. We won't see thick heavy growth until late August if we are lucky. On the positive side, with the bamboo gone along the "see through fence" I can now begin the process of removing and replacing the rotten fence posts that need replacing.